FIRST GRADE HANDWORK VERSES 

OPENING

This is little Tommy Thumb -round and smooth like any plum
This is Peter Pointer, surely he's a double jointer 
This is mighty Toby Tall, he's the biggest of them all
This is dainty Ruby Ring, much too fine for many things 
This is little baby, so tiny and so shy
All the five we've counted now, busy fingers in a row 
Each one knows the way to go 
How to work and how to play
But together they work the best 
Each one helping all the rest 

Spider, Spider, what are you spinning? 

A cloak for the faeries, I'm just beginning

What is it made of...tell me true

Threads of moonshine and pearls of dew

When will the faeries be wearing it? 

Tonight when the glow-worm lamps are lit 

Can I see it if I come a peeping? 

All good children must then be sleeping 

CLEAN UP 

I heard a little gnomie say 

It's time to put your work away

Wind up your balls, pick up lost threads 

And quietly put your handwork to bed 

CLOSING

My fingers are so sleepy

It's time they went to bed 

First you you little baby 

Tuck in your tiny head 

Ruby Ring now your turn

Next comes Toby Great

Peter Pointer hurry

For now it's getting late 

Let's see if there all nestled

One more to come 

Move over fingers make room

For little Tommy Thumb 

Now it is time for my hands to rest 

They have done their work 

They have done their best 

4th Grade Pillows

Some more beautiful pillow projects completed by 4th grade students

8th Grade Pajamas

I have been working very hard to finish 8th grader's pajama pants for students who do not have sewing machines at home. My little Frost has been hard at work sewing right alongside me. 6 pajamas done, and 3 more to go! 

A couple of finished 4th Grade pillows!

5th Grade Sock Pattern

FIFTH GRADE SOCKS

CREATED FOR RIVER OAK  5^TH GRADE CURRICULIUM

DESIGNED BY: Carissa Sadlier

Copyright  2002 © Permission from designer required

 Yarn Used: Lambs Pride Superwash – (Bulky 100% wool)

Needle Size: 8 (5 double point needle)     Gauge:  4.5 stitches per inch

Cast on 32 stitches and divide onto three double point needles

	K2P2 – Knit 2 stitches Purl 2 stitches Sts – Stitches St – Stitch K2tog – Knit  2 stitches together P2tog – Purl 2 stitches together SSK – Slip St. as to knit, Slip st. as to knit, go   into front of stitches and knit together

v K2P2 for 1 inches or 10 rounds

v Knit for 5 inches

Divide stitches for heel:

                              1^st needle – 16 stitches

                              2^nd needle – 8 stitches

                              3^rd needle – 8 stitches

The next 17 rows are only on the FIRST needle, working back and forth as if on single point needles. (Right side is outside of sock – wrong side is inside of sock)- (notice the two rows below are repeated.)

                    Make sure you mark off your rounds – the rows will only look like 7/8 rows

                                                            Row 1:  (right side) *Slip 1, K1* rep between * across

                                    Row 2:  (wrong side) Slip the 1^st stitch then purl across

                                    Row 3: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 4:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 5: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 6:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 7: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 8:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 9: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 10:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 11: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 12:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 13: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 14:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 15: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across

                                    Row 16:  Slip 1, P across

                                    Row 17: *Slip 1, K1* rep between* across  

The turning of the heel:

(You are still only working on the 1^st needle)

                                             Row 1: Purl 10 sts, P2tog, P1, turn work (there will be 3 stitches left on the needle)

                                    Row 2: Slip first st, K5, K2tog, K1 (there will be 3 stitches left on he needle)

                                             Row 3: Turn Slip 1, P to within1 st of last turn, P2tog, P1 (one stitch left)

                                             Row 4: Turn Slip 1, K to within1 st of last turn, K2tog, K1 (one stitch left)

                                    Row 5: Turn Slip 1, P to within1 st of last turn, P2tog

                                    Row 3: Turn Slip 1, K to within1 st of last turn, K2tog

(You should have 10 stitches left on the first needle)

Gusset:       

         

          With extra needle pick up and K8 along the side of the heel by using the slip sts on the edge.  (When you pick up this is considered knitting the stitch – so you do not need to knit the stitch again after it is picked up)

            Knit across the 2 ribbing needles with one needle (there will be 3 needles in your work after this)

            With extra needle pick up and knit 8 sts along the other side of the heel

            (now 4 needles in your work)

               And then continue with the needle you picked up stitches and K5

This will be with 4^th needle from 1^st needle – this is the center back of the heel

            Slip remaining 5 sts from 1^st needle to 2^nd needle (Again you should have 3 needles in your work)

          !!!Check your stitches!!!

                        1^st needle – 13 stitches

                   2^nd needle – 16 stitches

                   3^rd needle – 13 stitches

            There are 42 sts on your needles.  You will now start knitting in the round again and will begin decreasing until the original 32 sts remain.

                        Rnd 1: Knit

                        Rnd 2: 1^st Needle – K10 (will be 3 sts left on needle), K2tog, K1

                                    2nd Needle – Knit across (Knit 16 sts)

                                    3^rd Needle – K1, SSK, K10

                                                (40 sts remain – 12 sts on needles #1 & #3)

                              Rnd 3: Knit

                        Rnd 4: 1^st Needle – K9 (will be 3 sts left on needle), K2tog, K1

                                    2nd Needle – Knit across (Knit 16 sts)

                                    3^rd Needle – K1, SSK, K9

                                                (38 sts remain – 11 sts on needles #1 & #3)

                              Rnd 5: Knit

                        Rnd 6: 1^st Needle – K8 (will be 3 sts left on needle), K2tog, K1

                                    2nd Needle – Knit across (Knit 16 sts)

                                    3^rd Needle – K1, SSK, K8

                                                (36 sts remain – 10 sts on needles #1 & #3)

                              Rnd 7: Knit

                        Rnd 8: 1^st Needle – K7 (will be 3 sts left on needle), K2tog, K1

                                    2nd Needle – Knit across (Knit 16 sts)

                                    3^rd Needle – K1, SSK, K7

                                                (34 sts remain –9 sts on needles #1 & #3)

                        Rnd 9: Knit

                        Rnd 10: 1^st Needle – K6 (will be 3 sts left on needle), K2tog, K1

                                      2nd Needle – Knit across (Knit 16 sts)

                                      3^rd Needle – K1, SSK, K6

                                                (32 sts remain – 8 sts on needles #1 & #3)

Continue knitting around on these 32 stitches until you have reached the base of your pinky toe.  (If you have extra long toes you may want a few more rounds!!!)

Toe Shaping:       

                        Rnd 1:  Needle #1:  K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #2:  K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #3:  K2, SSK, Knit to end of round

                                     (28 sts remain – 7 sts on needles #1 & #3, 14 sts on needle #2)                      

                        Rnd 2:  Knit

                        Rnd 3:  Needle #1:  K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #2:  K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #3:  K2, SSK, Knit to end of round

                                     (24 sts remain – 6 sts on needles #1 & #3, 12 sts on needle #2)                      

                        Rnd 4:  Knit

                        Rnd 5:  Needle #1:  K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #2:  K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #3:  K2, SSK, Knit to end of round

                                     (20 sts remain – 5 sts on needles #1 & #3, 10 sts on needle #2)                      

                        Rnd 6:  Knit

                        Rnd 7:  Needle #1:  K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #2:  K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #3:  K2, SSK, Knit to end of round

                                     (16 sts remain –4 sts on needles #1 & #3, 8 sts on needle #2)            

                        Rnd 8:  Knit

                        Rnd 9:  Needle #1:  K1, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #2:  K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #3:  K2, SSK

                                     (12 sts remain – 3 sts on needles #1 & #3, 6 sts on needle #2)           

                       Rnd 10:  Knit

                       Rnd 11:  Needle #1:  K1, K2tog

                                     Needle #2:  K1, SSK, K2tog, K1

                                     Needle #3:  K1, SSK

                                     (8 sts remain –2 sts on needles #1 & #3, 4 sts on needle #2)  

With the third needle (#3 needle) knit the stitches on the first needle – this will place 4 stitches onto #3 needle. There will now be 2 needles in your work with 4 stitches on each. 

Cut yarn leaving a tail about ½ yd – 18 inches – longer is better than to short!!!

            You will now need a tapestry needle

            Thread tail through eye of tapestry needle

Weave toe together with the Kitchener stitch following:

Hold the 2 needles parallel (there will be a front and a back needle)

                                               

*Go into first stitch of front needle as if to Knit, pull off needle with point of tapestry needle (do not pull yarn through at this time), go into next stitch on front needle as if to Purl and, leaving it on the needle, pull the yarn through both stitches.  Now work on the back needle, keeping yarn under first needle.  Go into first stitch as if to purl.  Pull off needle (do not pull yarn through), go into second stitch as if to Knit & pull yarn through both stitches.*

Continue alternating between the 2 needles until there is 1 stitch left on each needle.  Pull through both of these stitches and weave into wrong side.

                       

                                   

Doll Clothes Tutorial - "Coat"

Step 1: Cut out your paper patterns

Step 2: Pin and cut your fabric out using the patterns, make sure to align the folds of your fabric with the appropriate arrows of the patterns. The sleeves and "back" should be on folds, make sure to cut 2 sleeves as pictured below. The hood and "front" are not on a fold. The cut pieces are pictured in the second image - double check that you have the correct number of pieces.


                  Top: Hood and Front                                            # of fabric pieces you should have
         Bottom:  Sleeve 1 & 2 and  "Back"                                 


Step 3: Pin and sew the hems for each individual piece


     2 sleeves     "back"        2 "fronts"                          2 identical "front" pieces

Step 4: Lay out your work so you can see how to align and pin the pieces properly



Step 5: Pin and sew the sleeves to the front bodice pieces for both the right and left side - right sides together



Step 6: Pin and sew the sleeves to the "back" on both the right and left side - right sides together



Step 7: Hem both indiv←dual halves of the hood

←

Step 8: Sew the two hood pieces together at the curve to the bottom of the seam - make sure right sides are together





Step 9: Pin and sew the hood to the body of the coat, aligning the center seam to the center of the "back" piece and working out in either direction



Step 10: Pin and sew the final hemming portions at the top of the two front pieces



←←←←
Step 11: Pin and sew the front to the back, and along the sleeve seams and VOILA! You're done. Great work on a hard project!

Brief Introduction to Parents and Students

Welcome to our Handwork Blog!

I have compiled old resources, and created new ones that you and your students may use during our extended learning time. Parents and students can access materials by pressing on their labeled grade, located on the right-hand side of the blog.

I have put up patterns for 1st - 3rd grade, as well as uploaded a series of mini videos to assist students in creating and sewing projects up.  I have created and uploaded a series of mini-videos for 5th grade students to assist them in every section of creating their socks.  For 5th grade, a few of the sections are out of order as I had to edit videos to fit within the allotted time; the videos are numbered and labeled according to sections of the sock. For 6th grade I have uploaded a series of video tutorials to assist students in creating their pajamas for their Waldorf Doll. I also uploaded a short video to help them remember how to do get their needle ready for sewing, how to do the backstitch and how to tie a knot when they are finished sewing a section.

I hope these resources will be useful to everyone! I also hope each of you are staying healthy and happy and are making progress on your projects. Please know that I am available for any help needed, or if you just need to reach out and talk to a teacher during this time. Thank you parents for all that you are doing during this transition time.

I will be available for any questions either on the blog (I will try to check once a day), or at my personal email: nsadlier@hotmail.com


Sincerely,
Ms. Noel

Wet Felting - Flat Fabric

      1.      Lay out your wool roving - these are your natural fibers  

a.      Cover your workspace in plastic, or work outside, as the felting process uses ample amount of water and can be messy

b.      Lay down a towel and one of your mats down on your tabletop

c.      Taking a piece of your wool roving, gently tug small tufts from one end

d.      Lay the fibers in a row, each going in the same direction, and overlapping each other by ½ an inch

e.      Continue adding fibers this way – all in the same direction – until the layer is approximately 30% larger than the desired size

                                                    i.     Wool fibers will shrink during the felting process by approximately 30% depending on the type of wool and other external factors

      2.    Sprinkle the roving with water

a.      Fill your bottle with hot water and a few quirts of any soap you have available.

b.      Gently shake the bottle, and sprinkle the mixture over your entire wool layer, generously covering the whole layer so it is LIGHTLY saturated.

c.      Place your hand on top and gently massage the water into the wool for a couple of minutes

3.    Add your second layer of wool – also natural fibers

a.      Start adding the second layer, make sure the second layer is perpendicular to the first.

b.      Pull small tufts from one end of your roving and lay your next layer, with all fibers going the same direction for this layer, but opposite the direction of your first layer

c.      Again, overlap the sections of this layer by ½ an inch

d.      Sprinkle with your water and soap mixture and lightly press your hands on the fabric to saturate your fibers

      4.     Add your third and final layer of wool– these are your colorful and dyed fibers

a.      This layer is perpendicular to the second layer, and so should be placed in the same direction as your first layer. I like to have my 1^st and 3^rd layers horizontal, and my 2^nd vertical. You may want your colored layer to be vertical depending on your imagery, and so would adjust accordingly

b.      Pull small tufts from your dyed wool and lay them according to the background color display you want your art scene, or fabric, to depict.

c.      Lightly sprinkle your hot water and soap mixture over (remember the additional layers need less added water as water will seep up from the previous layers)

1    5.     Begin the felting process

a.      Place your second mat on top of your project and begin gently agitating the project, using pressure and circular motions, with the flat part of your hands. Make sure to begin lightly in the beginning, your fibers should not be separating and moving very much at first.

b.      Work the entire surface evenly, including the edges, while increasing pressure and level of agitation.

c.      Continue this process for 10-15 minutes

d.      Flip your work and repeat.

e.      Pinch test your fabric, on both sides, to make sure the fibers have stuck together efficiently and are not pulling apart from one another.

                                                    i.     If the fibers pulling up in a solid piece, you are reading to move on

                                                   ii.     If the fibers are pulling up separate from one another, sprinkle additional hot water, replace the mat and continue to work the fibers until they are ready.

        6. Felt your project – the fulling process

a.      This is the stage when the fibers will shrink, harden and form your solid fabric piece.

b.      Place your project inside of your rolling mat, inside of a towel and roll the bamboo mat and towel up tightly.

c.       Use your hands to roll the project back and forth for a solid 5 minutes. Use pressure throughout the process.

d.      Unroll the project, turn it 90 degrees and repeat this process of rolling for the second side. Using pressure and a back and forth motion.

e.      Repeat this process for the remaining two turns, making sure to work evenly throughout the fulling process.

f.       If you feel like your fabric has really taken shape and shrunk considerably, you can move onto the next step. Otherwise, re-roll your project in all four directions another time.

 7.      Finishing your felted fabric

a.      The last step of the felted fabric is to throw the piece down on the table, to finish the shrinking process.

b.      Make sure your table, or the floor, is clean and take your project and throw it roughly down for approximately 30 times.

c.      Pick your project up, and check it.

                                                    i.     If you are happy with the product then you can rinse it out

                                                   ii.     If not, continue to throw it until you are happy. Remembering that the product will get very hard and will shrink more – you do not want to overwork the fabric

d.      Set up a tub with hot water, full enough to completely submerge your project.

e.      Dunk your project into the hot bath

f.       Next, rinse the project with cold water completely until no more soapy suds appear. You can use the kitchen sink or a hose outside, whichever you and your family prefer.

g. Leave the project out in the sun, completely flat, until it is dried completely. Your fabric is finished!

      8. Needle-Felting Designs

a.      First gather the colored wool you will need for your design, you will also need felting needles and a foam pad.

b.      Begin by pulling small tufts of your wool and placing them on your wool fabric in the design you have chosen, to get a general idea of where things will lie and fit.

c.      Make sure to place the foam pad underneath your work at all times when you are using a felting needle on your work.

d.      Begin felting the designs onto your fabric using your felting needle.

                                                    i.     Always work in a straight up and down motion as the needles are fragile and will break easily if you bend them awkwardly

                                                   ii.     Enter the fabric only slightly and do not submerge your needle deep into the foam pad

                                                  iii.     Hold the colored wool in place with your thumb and forefinger of your left hand, and use your right to slightly imbed the needle within the fabric, over and over again. Make sure to cover the entire length of the wool, so that the appearance is even.

                                                  iv.     Continue to add wool fibers and needle felt them in place until you are happy and finished with your design.

Wonderful work! You have finished your 7^th Grade wet-felting project, and I am so very proud of all of your hard work and dedication! Way to go students!